Switzerland Part 2: Through the Val Müstair to the Italian border

After a cold and rainy day in the Albula Hospiz we woke up to the beeping sound of the snowplow. Wait, snowplow? That’s right. We peeked outside the window and in front of us lay a snow-covered landscape in the beginning of August. Good for us, this means we can test our winter clothes a little bit earlier than planned. We put on our merino long-sleeves, sweaters, rain gear, hats and our windproof thermal cloves. The Pass was frosted like a wedding cake and we couldn’t see very far, but this scenery had its own magic. The mooing of the cows indicated the boundary of the road. We pedaled carefully on the snowy roads and once again we realized, that the descent always feels unequally shorter than the ascent.

On backroads through the lower Engadin

In the lower Engadin we drove along idyllic mountain villages with their distinctly decorated houses. In S-Chanf we left the main roads and followed the Inn Cycle Path which didn’t turn out as a good idea on that day. The scenery was very beautiful, but the rain, the dirt roads and the many climbs kept us from enjoying this path and we were happy to return to the main road in Zernez.

We found a restaurant to warm-up and taste the scrumptious local specialty Capuns. Then it was time for our second pass, the Ofenpass on 2149 m. After the first few meters into the steep ascent we felt like we wouldn’t be able to make it that day, because the morning was much tougher than anticipated. But as time passed, our legs got used to the exertion and we were able to appreciate the fantastic landscape of the only Swiss Nationalpark. The untamed nature with its vast alpine forests and the mighty mountains made us feel as if we would be travelling through Canada or Alaska. We’re not used to such an unspoiled landscape here in Switzerland where you usually find houses in every direction.

The last few meters before the Ofenpass were painfully steep and we felt so relieved when we reached the top. Exhausted we stumbled into the open restaurant and ordered everything we desired. We were almost too tired to talk to each other and our bodies didn’t feel like moving anymore. But we wanted to pitch a tent again after three nights in hotels and did not give in the temptation of asking for an available room, even though there was a sauna(!). But we stayed strong and descended to the Val Müstair as it started to get dark and just behind the village of Fuldera we found a camping spot in a fairytale-like forest. We were still worried that pedestrians would spot us wild camping and call the police in those first days, but again, nothing happened.

Beautiful Biosfera Val Müstair

It was very chilly the next morning and too cold to prepare breakfast, but the sun was finally back and piece by piece we were able to put our winter gear down in the furthest corners of our bags, where they belong until the real winter arrives. It was our first visit in the Biosfera Val Müstair and we were looking forward to this remote region of Switzerland. We crossed the scenic village of Santa Maria, that unfortunately was blocked by traffic chaos. This village is in desperate need of a ring road to get its charm back.

Soon afterwards we reached Müstair, the easternmost village in Switzerland. We paid a quick visit to the impressive 1200-year-old UNESCO world heritage convent St. John, which is still a working Benedictine convent with 11 nuns living here. Just as we stepped into the chapel, the nuns started chanting. What a special moment to be here. The church contains the largest and best preserved early medieval fresco cycle in the world and there is also a museum. We skipped the museum and instead spent some time in the peaceful monastery garden and asked ourselves: Do they build monasteries and churches always on sublime spots or does the setting only get its divine atmosphere after they’re being built? Now it was only a couple of meters more to the Italian border and it was definitely time to say goodbye to Switzerland for a while.