Italy Part 1: Through the Vinschgau valley to Merano

The Italian region South Tyrol (Alto Adige) welcomed us with sunshine and numerous cycle routes, almost resembling freeways for bicycles. We definitely weren’t the only cyclists here and were passing others every second, but none of them were pedaling on fully loaded bikes. There were a lot of families on the road and many people on E-Bikes. We were asked quite often where we come from and where we are heading. They were usually quite surprised to hear about our plans, when we told them we have been cycling from Switzerland all the way to the South Tyrol, let alone our plans on traveling further east.

The Vinschgau valley is very lovely with extensive apple plantations, meadows and neat towns such as the romantic Glurns with its medieval atmosphere and perfectly preserved town walls and picturesque gate towers. There were many inviting restaurants and bars along the way and fountains to fill up drinking water and it definitely felt more like a Sunday excursion than an adventurous trip. We reached the popular holiday destination Merano in the evening and were amazed by the wide roads, the many trees and the manorial state homes and Art Nouveau mansions. We decided to stay for two nights in a Bed & Breakfast and relax from the hill climbs of the previous days.

Our Merano highlights

The spa town Merano (about 42'000 inhabitants) offers a Mediterranean atmosphere, many open green spaces and a hint of urbanity with a good selection of restaurants and bars for the beloved aperitifo. Thanks to its sheltered location at the bottom of the mountains, Merano boasts a very southern climate, favourable for the growth of exotic plants, fruits and vegetables.

We ignored the Must-Sees (the Botanical Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle and the Merano thermal bath), because we didn’t want to just pound the streets to tick off sights from a bucket-list. We preferred to walk around and enjoy the genuine summer mood without an itinerary. Merano has been known for its mild and healthy climate for a long time and used to be a popular meeting place for the nobility (think Austrian Empress Sissi), illustrious guests and spa visitors and it goes without saying that it was important to have an inviting promenade to stroll around.

A Summer Promenade has been created with huge shady trees and a Winter Promenade with abundant sunshine and sheltered from the wind. Back then, sauntering along the promenade came with many rules (no cigarette smoke, no slobby clothing and women weren’t allowed to stir up the dust with their long hair), so that the elegant ladies and gents could enjoy their walk undisturbed. Today, things are a fortunately more relaxed and visitors can follow the promenades until the Passirio town gate and arrive in nature within minutes, what a liveable city.

Leaving the promenades, we arrived at the Steinach, the oldest district of Merano (12^th century). An impressive gate brought us to the smaller alleys with old craft workshops. Sometimes you could still tell on the storefront of the houses what used to be sold here. We followed a path upwards to the public spice garden and the Pulverturm, the only surviving section of the once-imposing fortress Ortenstein Castle. It was used to store gunpower and therefore got its name Pulverturm or Pulver Tower. Finally, we could enjoy a view from a tower without entry fees and were even able to have a wonderful vegan Sissi-Burger in the small kiosk at the bottom of the tower.

In the late afternoon we took the cozy and nostalgic single chair lift from the 40s from the city center up to the village of Tirol. A lift attendant was even there to take care of the safety of the visitors and took his job very seriously. It was a joyful and recommendable experience. From the village of Tirol we followed the Tappeiner Promenade back to the city center. This promenade offers beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and pines, cedars, olive trees, bamboo, aloes and cactuses astonish the visitors. On the promenade were many benches to relax and we finally could buy a local apple, which (funnily enough) wasn’t possible before when we passed the many apple plantations of the Vinschgau Valley.

Back down in the city center, we enjoyed a fancy drink at Gigis Bar directly next to the wild Passer river. Some darker clouds covered the sky, but we were busy finding a good restaurant and we were in for a culinary highlight at the restaurant Schloss Kallmütz, where we luckily got an open table in the garden. The exaltation only lasted a couple of minutes, then an approaching summer storm made us quickly leave the romantic patio and take a seat inside. The meal was still delicious and far too expensive for our daily budget. Nevertheless, we fully enjoyed our time here in Merano. What a great and liveable city.